Ionian Immersion 2022

On May 4 we were off to Bologna, Italy, by way of London. Our cruise originally was to embark from Venice; however, the prior month we were notified of a change to Ravenna, a seaport some 4 hours down the Adriatic coast from Venice.  Venetian city fathers finally had enough with cruise ships towering over their serene republic.  Ravenna would be only an hour from Bologna by limo, so we changed our airline booking to Bologna.  Our evening in La Grassa, as Italy’s culinary capital is known, was a dud since the region was in the grip of a continuous soaking rain. The chilly leaden skies surprised us both since we are used to warm sunny climes in Italy in May. T he fast monorail connecting Marconi Airport to the city center is testimony to the can-do spirit of the Bolognese.  After our breakfast the next morning in the UNA Hotel  Bologna we set off in the rain to find a pharmacy that would do covid antigen tests to clear us to board the ship two days later. Lucky us...

Our driver for the ride from Bologna to Ravenna was a cheerful fellow who once had worked at a Pizza Hut in Franklin, VA. Small world, eh? We stayed at the Palazzo Galletti Abbiosi, a boutique hotel originally the home of a Ravennati noble family. The Ravenna weather was still a bit gloomy, but didn't dampen the charm of the palazzo. Main staircase Murano glass chandelier P alazzo chapel Sitting room Palazzo courtyard Our time in Ravenna allowed for a visit to the main attractions: the Tomb of Dante (father of the modern Italian language) and a few of the great mosaic basilicas of the 6th century. T omb of Dante (with Alpini veterans on holiday) Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo Basilica grounds Christ mosaic We would be remiss if we failed to mention the vintage hand-powered Berkel & Parnall's meat slicer tucked away in the corner of the hotel dining room. It was made in England likely before World War I. Emilia-Romagna celebrates its cured meats, most famously mortadella....

Our taxi ride from the Palazzo to the port was a short one, about 20 minutes. And as is often the case in Italy, we were entertained by a cheerful and chatty driver who loves to draw out details about us. Ravenna is relatively new to the cruise industry. Modern facilities are still to be constructed. Oceania constructed a semi-permanent tent structure the size of an aircraft hanger to make the boarding process pleasant. The Riviera was last refurbished in spring 2022. It provides for 1,238 guests and 776 staff. Owing in part to Covid, our cruise had fewer than 800 passengers. Oceania Riviera  Beaches and pine forests surround the future cruise port complex.                            

Split is a busy commercial and ferry port servicing nearby islands, Italy, and Greece. It enjoys a Mediterranean climate and is one of the sunniest places in Europe. Split is best known for Diocletian's Palace, which dates to the 4th century and takes half of Split's old city. Residences still exist inside the Palace's wall; however, property values are making the residences affordable only to the wealthy. Split's port promenade is abuzz with cafe life and lined with palm trees, which were originally brought to the Balkans by Napoleon. Coastline near Split Ever present Jadrolinija ferries Along the promenade In the Palace, a 4,000-year old Egyptian sphinx  Palace wall

Dubrovnik is a city of ancient streets lined with palaces, Venetian-style buildings, and bell towers, all cut from the same pale stone. The well preserved old town surrounded by medieval walls dating to the 13th century is a UNESCO world heritage treasure. Walking through the old town gives one a real sense of medieval life. A Franciscan monastery holds artifacts of  the  world's third oldest  pharmacy. Dubrovnik served as one of the primary filming scenes for the TV series Game of Thrones. Bell tower, old city Overlooking the old city Just inside the entrance to the old city Monastery cloister Old city Bridge near cruise port

Piraeus is the seaport for the city of Athens. The cultural center of Greece since the 8th century BC, Athens was not made the capital of the Greek nation until 1834. Now a bustling city of 4.5 million, it holds an abundance of treasures of Europe's first great classical civilization. (That is, if one excludes the Minoan civilization which predates Greece's Mycenaean founders.) It is believed that the massive volcanic eruption centered at Santorini weakened the Minoans to such an extent they were vulnerable to Mycenaean incursions from mainland Greece. The Acropolis and Parthenon are and always will be the centerpiece of Athens and a reminder of the glory of the classical Greek period. Parthenon atop the Acropolis (in a state of continuous preservation) At the Parthenon The Erechtheion and porch of the Karyatids The sprawling city of Athens below The original olympic stadium Giant video displays at Piraeus port

Mykonos looks like a scene straight from a postcard: Whiter-than-white houses with brilliant blue shutters, vibrant bougainvillea, and a blue harbor bathed in warm sunlight. Iconic 16th century Venetian windmills stand in a row, their paddles spinning in the wind. Mykonos is vibrant and cosmopolitan, with a penchant for all-night parties and hedonistic good times. The island originally gained popularity from visits by Aristotle Onassis and Jackie Kennedy. If the traveller is looking for fine linen garments in vibrant pastels Mykonos is a shopping paradise.  Approaching Mykonos by tender Catholic church Typical alleyway Panagia Paraportiani consists of five joined churches. The iconic windmills Filozoiki the cat

  Santorini, the scene of one of the world's most violent volcanic eruptions almost 4,000 years ago, is likely the most dramatic of all Greek islands. The white-washed town sits atop the steep cliffs of the extinct volcano's rim surrounded by a deep blue sea in every direction. The only ways to reach the town from the shoreline are a donkey trail (inadvisable) and a modern funicular. At one time riding a donkey to the summit was the only mode. Today, the donkey trail (which is otherwise walkable) has become more of a joke than a popular way to the top.  The Thera side of Santorini Funicular Thera town square Painted rooftop A Seabourn cruise ship in the distance Somebody's lovely terrace Hotel Atlantis  

  A seaside town on the island of Kefalonia (also know as Cephalonia), Argostoli  remains a work-in-progress since its near total destruction in a 1953 earthquake. It is  still trying its best at becoming a resort destination, but it has a very long way to go to compete with the likes of Mykonos and Santorini. The island has had a tumultuous history: ruled by Norman kings from Sicily, Italian overlords, Turks, Venetians, and even the British for a short time. The town does have an attractive promenade; but the overall appearance of the port might conjure up memories of some backwater Caribbean spots in the minds of some travelers. Cathedral bell tower Public art on the promenade What the world needs more of! Along the promenade

 Both of us had visited Taormina separately in the 1980s, arriving there from mainland Italy by ferry (Adriana) and by hydrofoil (Jim). Then it was very much a sleepy town. Today it is o ne of the most popular destinations on the island of Sicily. Taormina is well-above sea level but still below the looming active volcano, Mt. Etna. The town has a medieval atmosphere despite its Greek (and later Roman) origins. A Greek amphitheater on the edge of the town dates to the 3rd century BC and is used today for concerts because of its excellent acoustics.  A Windstar tall ship is our neighbor Lunch under Mt. Etna Town square Sail away, full moon over Calabria